9 Iconic Parsi cafés in Mumbai that bring the old world charm
Are you looking for the best Parsi cafés in Mumbai? Here are 9 iconic cafés worth checking out.
Parsi cafés (also known as Irani cafés) are a special, not to be missed, part of Mumbai. Combining Irani café culture with Indian influence, it is one example of the melting pot of cultures in the bustling city.
The Parsi people fled religious persecution in Iran and settled in areas of India, mainly around Mumbai and Gujarat. They created their own community and with that came their own rich culture, food, and traditions. From that community, a vibrant Parsi café culture grew to be quintessential to Mumbai.
There’s a cluster of Parsi cafes in South Mumbai, which is a neighborhood that matches the nostalgic vibes of the cafes. The interiors showcase old school Bombay with checkered floors and unique old style architecture. Parsi café culture captures the essence of colonial South Bombay, when people would stop in for a cutting chai, bun maska, and a chit-chat with their friends.
9 Iconic Parsi cafes in Mumbai
These are the top spots to get a taste of Parsi café culture.
1. Britannia & Co
This historic café in South Bombay gives a vintage feel. It’s often busy so be prepared for a little wait. Be sure to try their unique ice cream soda flavors that are made specifically for Parsi cafes, by the brand Pallonji’s.
While in the neighborhood, take a walk around Ballard Estate, one of the few walkable areas in Mumbai that’s perfect for enjoying an afternoon stroll.
What to order: Berry pulao is their signature dish, available in many varieties.
2. Sassanian Restaurant & Bakery
This distinctive café is over 100 years old, established in 1913. It has an extensive menu with everything from sizzlers to Chinese food to classic Parsi dishes. I can absolutely recommend the classic bun maska and chai that I enjoyed here one afternoon with friends.
What to order: Bun maska & chai
3. B. Merwan & Co
This café is also over 100 years old. You’ll need to get here early to get one of their popular mawa cakes. They sell thousands of pieces everyday and usually run out by 11am. If you don’t make it in time to get a piece, try something else freshly made from their legendary bakery.
What to order: Mawa cake
4. Yazdani Bakery & Restaurant
Yazdani brings the old world charm. If you get there in time, try their popular plum cake & apple pie which can often sell out quickly.
What to order: Bun maska, plum cake or apple pie
5. Kyani & Co.
Credited as one of the oldest cafes in Mumbai, Kyani & Co was opened in 1904 and today serves as a no frills, inexpensive place to enjoy authentic Parsi food. They are known for their cakes, pastries, and snacks. As the story goes, during the country’s struggle for independence, freedom fighters allegedly held meetings here.
What to order: Try omelet pao and mutton or chicken patties here.
6. Ideal Corner
Ideal Corner is a quaint restaurant that used to be a garage. Each day of the week offers a new Parsi dish (except Mondays, which they are closed on). End your meal with a sweet caramel custard.
What to order: The daily special! Try something new here with their dish of the day.
7. Café Colony
This family run café is located in Dadar Colony, which is home to the largest population of Parsis in Mumbai. It’s a nice neighborhood that’s worth a walk around before or after your meal here. It’s quieter and more green than most areas of Mumbai, with some interesting old architecture.
What to order: Kheema Pav
8. Café Military
Another laid back Parsi cafe in the Fort neighborhood. Listen to all the reviews and don’t skip the creamy caramel custard here.
What to order: Caramel custard
9. SodaBottle Openerwala
Different than many of the old school cafes on this list, SodaBottle Openerwala is a popular chain restaurant that offers a tasty introduction to Parsi food. While more modern, they pride themselves on maintaining the quirky nature of Irani cafes.
What to order: Dhansaak and/or akuri on toast
Must Try Parsi Dishes
Here’s a break down of what to expect from some well known Parsi dishes.
Akuri (on toast)
Akuri is type of scrambled eggs with onion and other spices, commonly served on top of toast.
Bun Maska
Soft sweet bread in the form of a bun with butter (maska). Often served with tea.
Sali Boti
A mutton curry topped with shoestring crispy fried potato sticks (sali).
Berry Pulao
This dish is closer to brianyi than pulao. As the name suggests, it’s made with raisins and nuts. You can order this with different meats
Kheema Pav
The kheema is ground lamb made flavorful by cooking it with a variety of spices, ginger and chiles. Served with soft buns (pav) on the side.
Cutlets
Meat cutlets, commonly made of chicken or mutton, covered in an egg wash and fried. Cutlets are common to a lot of cuisines, but combining two Parsi staples of eggs and meat makes it essential to Parsi food.
Dhansaak
A classic Parsi dish made of a mix of meat and vegetables cooked with lentils and spices. Usually served with rice.
FAQs: Parsi cafes, cuisine, & culture
Before I lived in Mumbai, I had very limited knowledge of Parsi culture, so here’s some basic background info and answers to FAQs about Parsi cafes.
What is Parsi food?
Parsi food is an iconic part of the Mumbai food scene, with influence from Persian cuisine. Eggs, potatoes, and meat are staples of Parsi cuisine. A few well known Parsi dishes include sali boti, berry pulao and kheema pao.
What does ‘wala’ mean in Parsi names?
Parsi last names often reference their job or business. “Wala” in Farsi translates to “someone who does,” so their job would be listed and then wala is the suffix. For example, “daaru” translates to “alcohol” so “daaruwala” means someone who sells alcohol.
What is the best dish to try in a Parsi cafe?
If you are looking for something sweet, try the classic bun maska and/or mawa cakes. If a savory dish is more your speed, dhansaak is practically synonymous with Parsi food. For a mix of sweet and savory, give berry pulao a try!
What is the difference between Parsi cafes and Irani cafes?
The two names are often used interchangeably to describe the cafes, which were originally opened by Zoroastrian Irani immigrants to British India.
The Parsi people were the first group of Zoroastrain immigrants that came to India from Iran thousands of years ago, fleeing religious persecution. The name Parsi hails from the Pars region, their original land. Then more Irani people (also Zoroastrians) came to India later, during the 19th century’s second half.
Both Parsis and non-Parsi Irani immigrants to India are originally Persian and share Zoroastrian religious practices, but there are differences between the two groups such as language. The Irani people often speak languages like Farsi and Dari (Persian languages) while the Parsis generally speak English, Hindi, Urdu, and Gujarati languages. Both groups bring similar traditions and cuisine that have resulted in the Parsi and Irani cafes found in Mumbai today.
Why are Irani cafes famous?
Irani cafés bring an historic and vibrant café culture to India. They exemplify the melting pot nature of Mumbai by highlighting Parsi cuisine and café culture.
To me, the ambience of Irani cafes is reminiscent of classic 50’s American diners but less cheesy.
What is the Indian Parsi soda called?
Pallonji’s makes specialty soda flavors served in glass bottles, specifically in Parsi cafes. Their Raspberry flavored soda is especially popular.
TL;DR: Best Parsi cafes in Mumbai
If you want a glimpse into a simpler time and some delicious food, make sure to schedule a stop at a Parsi café during your time in Mumbai. You’ll get an authentic cultural experience, a nostalgic feel for old Bombay, and some tasty dishes to delight your taste buds. If you only have time to visit one or two, check out Café Britannia for old world charm or Sodabottle Openerwala for a more modern introduction to Parsi food.
If you’re a foodie and looking for more Mumbai food recommendations, check out:
Must Try Street Food in Mumbai
Where to eat in Mumbai as a tourist
Masque Mumbai: Review of India’s Best Restaurant