Nine Arches bridge in Ella, Sri Lanka

Ella or Nuwara Eliya or Kandy: Where To Stop?

Are you wondering which is better between Ella, Nuwara Eliya, or Kandy? I’ve got you covered!

If you are planning on taking the famous Sri Lankan train journey and debating which city to spend some time exploring, between Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, or Ella, here’s what you need to know.

I am confident you can hit the highlights in each town with one full day. Though, if you have time, it would be a calmer journey to take an extra night somewhere to enjoy a more relaxing pace.

I personally took the abbreviated train route of Badulla to Nuwara Eliya, which has the “most beautiful” views of the full train ride from Kandy to Ella.

The famous eight hour route is riding the train all the way from Kandy to Ella:

🚂 Kandy →  Ella
🚂 Ella →  Kandy

Or you can break up the long train journey between Ella and Kandy with a stop for a day in Nuwara Eliya. The train station nearest Nuwara Eliya is called Nanu Oya.

🚂 Kandy →  Nanu Oya (Nuwara Eliya) →  Ella
🚂 Ella →  Nanu Oya (Nuwara Eliya) →  Kandy

Another train route option is actually starting the train journey in Badulla, which is the stop before Ella and where the train starts from on the Ella to Kandy route. If you choose this option you can take a cab or tuk tuk back to Ella to stay.

🚂 Badulla →  Nanu Oya (Nuwara Eliya) →  Kandy
🚂 Kandy →  Nanu Oya (Nuwara Eliya) →  Badulla

Insider tip: By starting (or ending) the route in Badulla you cross the famous Nine Arches Bridge while on the train. If you start or end in Ella you won’t cross the bridge on your train journey.

If you are planning on visiting Sigiriya before or after your train journey, here’s what you need to know for hiking Sigiriya Rock.

What To Do In Ella

This mountain town offers hiking, majestic views, tea plantations, waterfalls, and the famous Nine Arches Bridge.

Between the three – Ella, Nuwara Eliya, and Kandy – Ella is my favorite town. If you are debating which place to squeeze in an extra day, I’d lean towards doing it here. The town itself is pretty small and can be seen in a day but if you want to do a hike or sight-seeing beyond the Nine Arches Bridge then you should stay for a couple nights.

Nine Arches Bridge

You can walk from the Ella train station down the tracks about 25-30 minutes (depending on how often you stop to take pictures of the lush green landscape) to Nine Arches Bridge.

There’s a couple stands selling water and juice along the way. You pass through a tunnel and come out on the bridge (just like the train does). You can walk across the bridge and get pictures from both sides and all angles. 

View of Nine Arches Bridge in Ella from the side with the tea plantations below it.

Enjoy the view from Askana Cafe 

While you wait for the train to cross Nine Arches Bridge, head up to Askana Cafe for a cup of tea and some delicious coconut roti. The man who runs the cafe was a delight – he gave us updates on when to expect the train crossing and enjoyed chatting with us. The trains in Sri Lanka run notoriously late so it’s nice to have a place to sit and a snack while waiting. It’s the perfect viewpoint for a stellar picture of the train crossing.

View of Nine Arches Bridge in Ella with a train crossing from a cafe on the hill.

Hike Little Adam’s Peak

Shorter and easier hike to manage than Adam’s Peak, its “big brother” mountain. You can walk to it from town and then there’s a steep but short climb up to the viewpoint. The path is marked by signs and very popular with tourists so you should have no trouble finding it.

Eat at Cafe Chill

Grab dinner at this two floor restaurant located right on the main street in Ella. Cafe Chill is packed with people for good reason; they have delicious food and a fun atmosphere. 

View of the street below from the second floor of Cafe Chill in Ella's downtown.

What To Do In Nuwara Eliya

Be sure to layer up in Nuwara Eliya! The weather is similar to England, overcast, rainy and chilly. That’s one of the reasons it’s known as Little England. If you want to avoid gloomy weather, then maybe consider skipping this town.

However, this town is the least touristy of the three options. So if you are looking for something different than the typical route through Sri Lanka, I’d stop here.

High Tea at The Grand Hotel

While we only enjoyed coffee and a couple bites at the coffee bar in The Grand Hotel most of the other couples there were experiencing High Tea and I can report it looked lovely. The hotel itself is an attraction and worth a stroll around.

Fancy sitting area in The Grand Hotel in Nuwara Eliya.

Tea Plantation Tour

The rolling hills covered in tea leaves are a highlight of Nuwara Eliya. If you are a tea enthusiast, then this stop is perfect for you. You can tour Mackwoods Tea Estate, Pedro Tea Estate, or Blue Field Tea Garden, among others.

A visit to Nuwara Eliya’s tea plantations offers a window into the intricate process of tea cultivation. Guided tours take you through the various stages – from plucking the tender leaves to withering, rolling, fermenting, and drying. Learn about the art of tea tasting and discover the nuances that make Sri Lankan tea renowned worldwide.

View of the green fields of a tea plantation in Nuwara Eliya.

Take a tuk tuk tour of the sights

There are plenty of tuk tuk drivers offering an hour or two drive around town to view the main tourist attractions like Lover’s Leap waterfall and Single Tree Hill. This is an easy way to spend your afternoon and get your fix of the town. 

Tudor-era post office

This post office was built by the British during the colonial era. The post office’s half-timbered façade, sloping roofs, and quaint detailing stands as a relic of British colonial influence.

Front view of the colonial era post office built by the British in Nuwara Eliya.

Gregory Lake

You can walk along the shore, but note you do need to pay a small entrance fee to get to enjoy the park next to the lake. If you’re pressed for time, this is a spot I would skip.

View from the park next to Gregory Lake with a walking path on the right and the lake to the left.

Victoria Park

This park sits in the middle of the town. It’s manicured lawns, flowers, and trees offer a nice setting for peaceful stroll. There is an entrance fee so be sure to go at a time when you’re ready for a break and enjoy sitting on a bench in calm surroundings.

Victoria Park in Nuwara Eliya with open green space, flowers, trees, little ponds of water, and a wooden canopy.

Nuwara Eliya Golf Club

If you are a golfer, then you should make Nuwara Eliya your stop! There’s an 18-hole course right in town and you can rent clubs. It transports you to the colonial history of Sri Lanka when Nuwara Eliya was a summer destination for the British.

View of the golf green and a couple sand traps at Nuwara Eliya Golf Club on a cloudy day.

What To Do In Kandy

Kandy is the second largest city in Sri Lanka, after Colombo. It’s often the first stop on the famous Kandy to Ella train ride. It’s worth spending a day in the city before catching the train south through the lush green mountains. Although if you do the train route in reverse (like we did) then it’s the last stop and I recommend spending a day here before heading up to Sigiriya or back to Colombo.

Walk around Kandy Lake

There’s a walking path that runs the circumference of Kandy Lake. It’s a pleasant stroll that won’t take you too long (it’s not over an hour to walk the whole thing).

Kandy Lake

Kandy View Point

After walking around the lake you can head up the hill to the south for a nice view overlooking the city and the lake. It’s not too steep to walk up and down so no need to bother with getting a tuk tuk.

View of Kandy from a roadside viewpoint on a hill overlooking the city and the lake.

Temple of the Tooth Relic

This popular Buddhist temple is a sacred site for Buddhists and a main attraction in Kandy that’s worth a visit. Be sure to dress respectfully by covering your shoulders and knees, even for a stroll around the gardens outside.

Front view of Temple of the Tooth Relic in Kandy with the garden in the front.

TL;DR: Nuwara Eliya or Ella or Kandy?

All things considered, you can’t go wrong between Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, or Ella when planning where to enjoy a stop on your train journey. Each town has its own unique landscape and sites to offer. It depends what interests you and how many days you have available in your itinerary.

If you are a nature lover and are looking for some pretty hikes, I’d recommend staying in Ella. If you like less touristy destinations, cooler weather, and enjoy golf or are a tea lover then be sure to stopover in Nuwara Eliya.